Suit Up: The Greatest Ready-To-Wear Suit Makers In The World Today
The best costume is, of course, a custom costume; after all,
it is made to suit only the user, rather than the mythical Mr. Average. But
that doesn't mean that ready-to-wear clothing is necessarily something minor.
In fact, some made-to-measure suits from big brands can cost more than a suit
made to measure by a city tailor. If you are close to those average
proportions, chances are good that you will find a suit that fits you well, and
for everyone, there is a modification service.
In fact, while fabric is important, it's essentially a
balance between grip and durability,
and it's worth paying extra for construction details like
floating canvas or functional cufflinks - fit is everything. So even though you
can buy online, there are several options that you should try. This is
especially true for the jacket. Aim for the one that fits your shoulders
perfectly, because everything else - the uniform chest - can be changed. And
unless you're lucky, it will take a few tinkering, even a few basics. Few
things look as bad as a suit with the wrong length of sleeves or pants.
Similarly, few things look as good, or will do as good a
service,
as a really well-cut suit. To do this, it can be beneficial
to turn to the masters of the trade, those historical manufacturers who have
focused on tailoring since its inception decades (and in some cases centuries).
There are many options, think also of Huntsman, Anderson & Shepperd,
Rubinacci and others, so it takes a matter of several hours of adaptation time
to find what works best for you. But it's no wonder that when a man finds a
suit that really suits him, he often returns to that designer over and over
again.
Here are the tailoring establishments that will never
disappoint you when it comes to buying a new two-piece.
L'Estrange London: Click to Shop Seasonal Menswear
Essentials
Brioni
Brunico wool suit,
Established in Rome in 1945, Brioni has long been the go-to
brand for the genre of classicism loved by business leaders, and sometimes James
Bond, which is why the Kering Group bought it in 2010 for $ 413 million. A
modern Brioni suit usually has a slim silhouette and a high button position,
but it is equally revealed in the fabric, which remains exclusive to the brand.
Bang and Olufsen Premium Audio - Click to Buy
Ermenegildo Zegna
Milano Easy Slim Fit navy blue wool suit,
Zegna, one of the few fully vertical men's clothing
companies, controls every step of the process, from their own sheep to weaving
and manufacturing, established in 1910, but has been making ready-to-wear for
50 years. In fact, in Italy, he revolutionized the industry by basing his cuts
on in-depth studies of body types. More recently, they are the pioneering
wetsuits that retain their shape despite their lightness, without lining and
without canvas.
brioni.
Canali
Beige cotton kei suit with stretch,
Founded in 1934 by Giovanni and Giacomo Canali and today run
by the third generation of the family, Canali is one of the most unique Italian
brands - expect slim jackets with narrow cuffs and fitted waists, and fitted
pants. Exquisite finishes, such as hand-cut seams under the collar and armhole,
embody his meticulous attention to detail.
canali.com
Wax London Contemporary British Made Menswear -
Boglioli
Gray slim fit virgin wool suit,
Founded in 1974, Boglioli has built a reputation for
alternative, more relaxed and personalized driving that radiates sprezzatura.
Proof of this is their K jacket: a piece deconstructed in cashmere and then
piece-dyed for a faded look. His style may not suit the traditional corporate
office, but he does suit changing suit designs as a more progressive and
relaxed wardrobe element.
bogliolimilano.com
Kiton
Navy blue virgin wool two piece formal suit,
Kiton tailors work in groups of six, with each team
specializing in a specific aspect of making a completely hand-cut and hand-sewn
suit, whether that's cutting pockets, sewing buttonholes, or sewing. The latter
is crucial work given how important the silhouette of a Kiton costume is to
your clients. This is the Neapolitan style, with its soft shoulders, high
armholes, heavily constricted waist and, especially for
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